Tuesday 24 September 2013

First Impressions

Well, we went to visit Juba. Here are a few of our observations from our initial impressions of the place we expect to be calling "home" from early in 2014: these are the ones I am happy to share on a blog! We saw some good things and we saw some challenging things for us to face next year. Let's start with the good things...

The MAF Team
I believe from experience that people make a place, so if there are friends, a place is easier to live in. With this in mind, it was good to meet the people that make up part of the MAF South Sudan team and we really enjoyed starting to get to know them! Here are some of them: in the office, then in Operations and in the third picture, at Tea Break:



Our lovely new house on the MAF compound:

The Playground + Pool on the compound, where our children loved to play:


The River Nile- just a 15 minute walk from our new home!


Supermarkets galore, shiny and well stocked! 
That will be a treat after Dodoma's small shops!


Now for some of the challenges...

Juba is HOT and humid!! 
The amazing heat is going to take some getting used to. It makes Dodoma's hot season seem positively chilly!! When we first got off the plane in Juba to walk down the stairway and onto the airport tarmac, I felt as if I'd entered my oven on bread-making day. I am sure that, if you dropped an egg, it would fry right there on the ground! My children were quite impressed by the heat and it figured heavily in the information books they each made on our Juba visit... (Sorry, you'll have to turn your head sideways for these pics- I couldn't get them the right way round!!)


The Education Question
We now have to work out what we are going to do about the children's education... will we go for the home-schooling option in this air-conditioned classroom, situated inside an old container on the compound....
...or will we opt to send them to the school in town, which is named in honour of the late Dr. John Garang?

 At the moment, it looks like the blue container may become the place our kids call School. Then the challenge will be...how will they meet friends and peers...?? There seemed to be very few kids in evidence. We were told that families often opt to send their kids to Uganda or Kenya for education. Social opportunites for Esther and Ben in particular will be far reduced from anything they have known to this point. At the moment, this is my biggest worry and the thing that wakes me in the night with anxious thoughts.

Driving on the RIGHT!!!!
Just as I get used to bumping about in a 4x4 in Tanzania, where we drive on the left, I now have to make a complete mental adjustment and start to think about driving on the right!!

Safety
We are well aware that we are going to a place where there have been difficulties in the past, although it was wonderful to see the rapid development and optimism of a country pleased to be at peace since it gained independence in 2011. However, the highly visible presence of UN vehicles, personnel and planes made me extra aware of security issues. The fact that our MAF compound has a strict curfew of 10:30pm also brings this home.

The cost of living
I could not believe the prices in shops!! We may have access to all sorts of wonderful shops with glittering goods on well-stocked shelves, but when we realised how highly they are priced, we also realised that many of these goods will still feel inaccessible. In Dodoma, this is because they are not available. In Juba, it will be because they are so expensive..
For example, in UK sterling:
a tin of baked beans = £5.50.
a box of 100 tea-bags = £5.
a 250g packet of butter = £4.50
I bought 5 oranges and paid £6!!
I am going to have to learn to shop carefully and stock up out-of-country where possible...

Well, that's all for now. There is still ALOT to learn, but these are some of my first impressions...

Sunday 15 September 2013

South Sudan

South Sudan is a country about which I know very little.

It is the newest nation in the world.
It was created by a people tired of the civil war and hideous crimes committed during the fighting within Sudan.
It's current capital city is Juba, although the government propose moving the capital city to another centre.
According to one source I was reading, it has the poorest infrastructure in the world.
It is one of the first countries where MAF operated it services.

There are other pieces of information that I read up about on the internet, but there's nothing like going to a place to help you to understand it a little bit better and to help you to learn about it. So when we fly to Juba tomorrow for a week's visit, to help prepare us for our move there early next year, I hope we will start this process of understanding and learning about the country that we will soon be calling home.

Friday 13 September 2013

Fever Pitch

Rumours of the scary-sounding Streptococcus A bacterial infection sent me rushing up to the Dodoma Medical clinic this week. Apparently, this nasty infection has been going around the children's school. I felt uneasy- the infection sounded horrible, with nasty far-reaching side effects. Since all 3 children have been ill these past 2 weeks with high fevers, sore throats and illness I felt I had better get them checked for infection levels.

I was holding off on going to the clinic, but when Ben came home from school yesterday with another fever and Joel woke from his nap with a fever, I was finally galvanised into action! My children's recurring fevers drove me into a fever-pitch of action! Up to the clinic we must go! I had been putting it off for 2 weeks, despite our awful Saturday night when all 3 children had high temperatures, Ben vomited and Joel was up all night with frightening croup! But with horrid bacterial infections lurking and fevers coming and going, the time had come to brace ourselves and head up the hill to DCMC...

I really do not enjoy going up to the clinic. Here are some of the reasons why:
  • the long wait:
 This time I went prepared, with bags of books, pens, puzzle books, bottles of water and some chapatis for the 3 children to snack on.

  • the lottery of which doctor we may see:
Somtimes, we get a doctor who is professional and helpful and you feel like they are giving you helpful medical advice. But yesterday, the doctor who happened to be on duty was unusual. He was very young and did not know how to behave towards my children, grabbing them, rubbing his face against their cheeks, stroking them, pulling them roughly into big hugs, pushing them to stand between his knees when he sat down and then picking Esther up, despite her reluctance, then swinging her around!! She was very upset by this, not surprisingly. I had to keep intervening to pull my children away from him, saying, "They don't like that! Please let them go!" It was all very awkward.
On top of this, he did not examine their throats or ask relevant questions about their health and I was so upset at his inappropriate behaviour that all the things I'd wanted to ask him went straight out of my head! I only realised later what a waste of time the whole appointment had been, as nothing was actually achieved. The young man simply recommended blood tests for all of them, including the unavoidable malaria test for Ben in light of him having a fever, even though I told him that Ben had been tested already and the results were negative. Which brings me on to my next point...

  • the blood tests.   Inevitably, the children were to be sent to the laboratory for their blood counts to be tested, along with Ben's malaria test. As soon as the children heard this, Esther and Ben burst into noisy tears and Joel was confused and upset by all the noise and crying. The consultation room was transformed into a scene worthy of a Shakespearean tragedy! My children hate having the needle stuck in to draw their blood for testing. It is always so upsetting for them and therefore for me too!
 Fortunately it was over very quickly with a needle in one finger and the needle point was tiny, so the crying subsided fairly soon afterwards:


  • the laboratory.  I have horrors of the lab, where the counter-tops are strewn with suspicious-looking vials of blood, ominous needles and strange bottles of medical solutions: 

I always feel on-edge in the lab, not quite sure whether everything is safely stowed and feeling over-conscious of the threat of contaminated blood. I do have a very active imagination, so I know I'm probably over-reacting, but being a Mum makes me very sensitive to possible threats to my children's health and an uneasy awareness of AIDS infection, rightly or wrongly, lingers in my consciousness.

  • the uncertainty. Because the Doctor I had seen had not installed confidence in me, I found it harder to trust his diagnosis of the test results. I could see from the table of results from the lab that Ben did not have malaria, but I was in the doctor's hands to interpret everything else. I just found it harder to believe him when he told me nothing was wrong with any of the children, especially when I got home and Ben's fever went up to 40'C - for no apparent reason.
It was a frustrating afternoon.
Someone asked me recently what I will and won't miss about Dodoma when we move on. I'd like to say that I won't miss my visits to DCMC, but part of me knows that we will be moving somewhere less developed.... so I wonder if perhaps one day I will look back on this blog post and, in hindsight, miss the lab and the clinic and the fact that at least we had somewhere to go for blood tests and a certain level of medical support!

Saturday 7 September 2013

A Life So Different

One of the hardest things about leaving Tanzania will be saying good bye to treasured people who have become a special part of our lives. One of those people is Jane:

Jane has been working faithfully for us since we arrived in Tanzania in 2009. Loyal, honest, hard-working and with a humility which inspires me, it will difficult to say farewell to her. When Jane has a problem or difficulty in her life, she expresses a simple faith- God is with us, she says. God is good. God will help me. Her conviction never wavers, despite the problems she encounters. It gives her strength to carry on through and come out the other side. Her steady, calm faith challenges me when I get flustered with worry about so many things!

Jane's faith is all the more inspiring when I consider the problems she has faced. Life is not easy for many women in Tanzania. They face challenges I had not dreamed of with my western cultural background. Chatting to me the other day, she reminded me, "Mama, we, African women, our lives are different to yours. We don't expect our men to be there for us. It is hard for us. Men do what they want in our culture". This was spoken from her own experience, as she related her life's story me: what an eye-opening conversation. Her life is so different from mine.

Jane was born in 1959 in a village in the remote, hilly region of Tanzania called Songea, in the far south of Tanzania. She was seventh of 9 children, 3 of whom are still alive. Two siblings died before she was born and 2 more died while she was a child. Two others died in early adulthood. Tragically, one was an older sister who had just got married.

Jane and her younger sister went to school and received a basic education. She was telling me just last week how pleased she is that she had the opportunity to learn to read and write, which has helped her to get work. Many people in Tanzania are not so fortunate, despite government policies to get children into education. Families often cannot afford the books, stationery and shoes necessary for a child to attend school.

At 17, Jane fell pregnant. After an uncomfortable pregnancy she gave birth to a son, Edison. I have been told that, for certain men in Tanzania, it is important for a woman to prove that she is fertile enough to bear children before she will be considered for marriage. It seemed that Jane had proved her worth. Accordingly, at 18, she was married to the father of her son. She says that village life was hard and there were few opportunities, so a few years later, in 1980, she and her husband and young son moved to Dodoma. In 1973, the government had announced that Dodoma would be the nation's capital city, so Dodoma held promise as a place to earn a living. Jane sought work opportunities, selling peanuts or cooking certain foods as a small business venture to gain income.

However, Dodoma did not appear to hold enough opportunity for Jane's husband. In 1989, he left Jane and Edison and moved to Mwanza in the north of the country to seek work. He got a job as a hotel receptionist. We often meet friends and colleagues in Tanzania whose families live apart, with the husband getting work far away from his wife and family. Sometimes it is an economic necessity of family life in a country where jobs may be few and far between. For others it is just the way things are done and it seems that, for the unscrupulous man, it is a chance to live freely, without the watchful eye of his wife close by! The latter seemed to be the case for Jane's husband.

The next news that Jane heard was that her husband had married another woman in Mwanza! He made a new life for himself, going on to have 3 children with his new wife, although technically he was still married to Jane. "Mama, niliteseka", said Jane- "I suffered". It was a horrible time for her. Jane tried to explain to me that this is not unusual in many Tanzanian marriages. The man may be married, but he feels he can still do what he wants, whereas the woman is expected to carry on providing for the family, raising the children and keeping the home. Polygamy in Tanzania is not restricted to the Muslim community- it seems it still happens, irrespective of religious beliefs. She quoted other examples to me of people I had met at one of her family parties, where the man had 2 wives. I had been oblivious.

 Back in Dodoma, Jane's older brother had seen how her husband ran around after other women, so he took Edison and Jane under his wing. She speaks with fondness of the way he looked after them. They lived in his house with him. Looking back, Jane is so grateful for his protection and grieved deeply when he died a few years ago.

Edison's father did send money from time to time, but Jane worked herself to help pay their way and to put Edison through school. In 1987 she had started work as a house-help for employers from overseas, which provided consistent income.

One day, a letter arrived from her husband saying that he wanted his 1st wife and son to come to Mwanza, but Jane's brother put his foot down on their behalf and refused, saying that Edison must complete his education in Dodoma before they travelled.

When Edison had turned 17 and was finishing school, Jane began to look into taking Edison to Mwanza, but before she could take their son on the long bus journey from Dodoma in 1994, Jane got a message to tell her that her husband had died! Apparently, word had reached Mwanza that Jane was on her way. This news angered a third woman who was now living as the husband's "mistress", in addition to the second wife! This third woman was outraged to discover that Jane was coming, along with a son, to claim the attentions of "her" man. In fact, she was so angry that put poison in his chai (tea). Unwittingly, he drank it. It was a fatal cup of tea.
"He was poisoned?" I asked Jane, incredulous.
"Yes, Mama, that woman killed him".

 I was thoroughly shocked to hear that Jane's husband had been poisoned. However, Jane gave me a wry smile and said, "It happens here." I asked her whether the woman who had committed this crime had been caught and convicted. "I think so," she replied, but she did not seem too sure about what had happened next. I tried to imagine a similar scenario in England. Such a story would make headline news, especially 20 years ago when all this took place. There would be court cases, publicity and news, but Jane seems incredibly vague about the whole process following the crime, shrugging with a simple acceptance. It seems to me that she is resigned to such happenings- that's just life. Her husband lived far away. Her husband had other women. One of them was a bad woman. It happened and she must carry on with life.

When I spoke to a German neighbour who has lived and worked in East Africa for almost 20 years, she also smiled at my shock. "Liz, it does happen. If you looked into it, you would find that poisoning is, sadly, a relatively common occurrence." I still have so much to learn. I was told that some local church leaders, friends of my neighbour, are reluctant to eat or drink when attending an event hosted by people of a different religious group as they fear being poisoned!

Fortunately for us, Jane is completely trustworthy, so I do not have to worry about her putting poison in our food, which is a huge relief, seeing as she is a fantastic cook! For over 20 years, Jane has been working as a houselady for families from South America, Italy, Rwanda, Holland and England. When she started working for us, she brought with her a wealth of culinary expertise, having been taught to cook by previous employers. We enjoy her amazing bread, cinnamon rolls, torillas, chilli con carne, lasgne, pizza... and more! I think it's pretty obvious who taught her what! In turn, she has taught me about cooking, since I landed in this country without ever having baked bread! I had never attempted baking anything as delicious as a cinnamon rolls and had never made a pizza from scratch...it's been fun to learn while developing my Swahili vocabulary.

Jane also brings us gifts fruit or corn, which, like many Tanzanians, she grows on a small patch of land near her house as a means of additional income. Esther, Ben and Joel love peeling the layers off the fresh corn:

Since becoming a widow, Jane has stayed in Dodoma. Without her job as a house-lady, she could not survive. The income is crucial to her. Now her son is grown up, he in turn helps her- a system of family assistance which is so important in the social structure of this country. Edison has a good job repairing motorbikes in a place called Kondoa, a bumpy bus-ride 3 hours away from Dodoma. Jane's son, her daughter-in-law and 3 grand-children are her pride and joy;: she loves to keep me up to date with their news and cherishes their visits. Edison takes great care of his mum and although he lives with his family in Kondoa, Jane lives in this house that he built on the outskirts of Dodoma:

Over time, the family have gradually added a tap with running water and soon they hope to have electricity for lights. The kitchen is a dirt floor with a dip where a fire is laid for cooking, as the luxury of an electric stove is not a possibility. Jane's son sometimes arranges for lodgers to come and live with Jane, to provide extra income.

Jane gives testimony to other tough times when her faith has helped her through the years. One of these was when she became seriously ill a few years ago. She needed an major operation and had no alternative but to go to the dreaded local Dodoma hospital: "General Hospital". The horror stories I have heard of people who have been to "General" remind me of stories we read in history books at school- of filthy Victorian hospitals, where "doctors" charged exorbitant rates for very poor service and you were lucky to come out alive! To be fair, I have never looked around the inside of the hospital, so I could not say how bad it is, but the stories I hear of poorly qualified doctors demanding bribes to treat patients and of the lack of hygiene are enough to frighten me! Jane related how her employer of the time threatened the doctors on duty, saying if they neglected to care for her, he would report them for negligence!

Jane survived, was well cared for and says she's so thankful for God's protection and for providing for her through employers (who no doubt had to pay a large sum for the treatment- no NHS here!) and to the international MAF community, many of whom gave blood, as she needed lots of blood donations to survive. I asked her if she had been afraid, but she shrugged and said, if it had been her time to die, it would have been her time to die. A peaceful acceptance that I know I would not have, with my western upbringing. Rather, I would expect good treatment and good results, yet Jane told me yesterday that people here do not expect to survive major operations. The lady in the bed next to her who'd also been operated on died while Jane was recovering and so did the man in the bed across from her. This makes her all the more thankful that she survived.

As I start to look ahead to leaving Tanzania early next year, I worry about what will become of Jane. Will she get a new job? I'll certainly be giving her a very good reference, but at 55 years old, it is harder for her to compete against the younger, fitter ladies who are also seeking house-work. Bouts of ill health and a life of hard labour have taken their toll on her physically, meaning that she is slower at tasks than other ladies. Meanwhile, prices continue to go up and the cost of living is ever higher. Her son will do what he can, but he has 3 children and a wife to provide for too.
When we told Jane we had to leave next year, there was a long period of silence in my often chatty kitchen. I felt the sting of tears behind my eyes, but was determined not to upset Jane by making an emotional scene.Finally, Jane spoke. "Mama, it will be hard without this job. It will be hard. We will remember you. But we will pray. God will help. He is here."

I will carry inspiration from Jane's faith as we move on. It will be hard. Tanzania is not a country which provides unemployment or good retirement benefits. But without belief in God's help for the future, there would be such little hope. So pray we must. One day I hope we will hear how Jane's faith continues to be rewarded. For now, I am grateful for the chance I have to know Jane and to learn lessons from a life so different from my own.